The mighty Clutha River is New Zealand’s second longest river, the longest in the South Island and it boasts the highest volume of any river in the country, making it the fastest flowing. In comparison to the Waikato, the Clutha carries nearly twice the volume of water. Running from Lake Wanaka through Central Otago, it finally spills into the Pacific Ocean, south of Balclutha. Its swift and swirling emerald green waters vividly intense, if not a little bewitching as it charges through the countryside with imposing intent. Many road-trippers will most likely cross-paths with the Clutha while holidaying in Wanaka, or calling into Cromwell, en-route to Queenstown.
But if you have the time to explore a little further, the Clutha encompasses a swag of evocative tourist gems, from the treasure-chest of Clyde to the lesser-known jewels like Roxburgh. On a recent summer swing, I rolled through the wide and lonely wilderness of Central Otago’s Manitototo, which terminates in Alexandra. From there, the perfectly-formed and impeccably preserved goldrush town of Clyde is just a 10 minute hop up State Highway 8. Originally known as Dunstan, Clyde lies beside the mighty Clutha River amongst a rugged landscape dotted with dark schist rocks, swaying tussocks and the awesome Clyde hydro electric dam.
The heart of town, Sunderland Street, boasts one of New Zealand’s best historic precincts, lined with storied properties like the Dunstan Times Building, Hartley Arms Hotel, the town hall/lodge, Dunstan House, Dunstan Hotel, the former Benjamin Naylor General Store, post office, court house and Clyde Railway Station all standing proudly defiant to the passage of time. A hospitality powerhouse is Oliver’s Restaurant, which was established and operated for 20 years by Fleur Sullivan, of Fleur’s Place Moeraki fame. At the foot of the serrated Dunstan Range which was sporting a skiff of fresh January snow when I visited, Clyde is also the start (or finish line) of the Otago Central Rail Trail, New Zealand’s Original Great Ride, which runs along the old railway line all the way to Middlemarch.
It has now been joined by a supporting cast of trails, which are more focused on tracing the Clutha.  The Otago Central Rail Trail is New Zealand's Original Great Ride and extends 150 kilometres along the former railway route between Middlemarch and Clyde. The Roxburgh Gorge Trail is a one-day trip on a 34km route snaking alongside the Clutha River from Alexandra to the Roxburgh Dam. And the latest kid on the block is the Clutha Gold Trail, which opened four years ago. This 73km trail is a unique riverside heritage experience, heading south from Roxburgh to the Beaumont Gorge, where it branches off through rich green valleys towards the historic gold mining town of Lawrence. It was nearby at Gabriel’s Gully, that the Otago goldrush was born, following the discovery of gold in 1861.
Both trails can be discovered on foot or by bike, immersing you in the golden Otago heartland, richly wreathed in its mining legacy. If the trails sound like too much of a hard slog for your leisurely vacation plans, hopscotch your way around the characterful attractions, by car. In fact, just east of Alexandra, follow State Highway 85 for ten minutes to Omakau and Ophir, which was once the area’s most populous centre, taking its name from King Solomon’s gold mine. The streetscape feels frozen-in-time, lined with dozens of historic buildings and cottages, cleaved out of schist, mudbrick and timber. In a region where bridges punctuate the panoramas, Ophir’s Daniel O’Connell Bridge is a star specimen, one of the region’s last surviving suspension bridges, built in 1880.
A whole roasted bullock and 238 litres of beer was devoured to celebrate its opening. Ophir Post Office is another classic, as is Pitches Store, a former grocery shop which now wins accolades for its superb boutique accommodation and restaurant. Great on-the-go coffee, too! Back on State Highway 8, I headed...